DIY Tub Installation.
DIY Tub Installation.
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Mounting a bathtub isn't exactly rocket science, but it does need strong plumbing, woodworking, and in some cases, tiling skills. Changing an old bath tub with a brand-new one is also a moderately tough task. If the old bathtub is conveniently obtainable, the project can move rapidly; if you need to open up a wall surface to get rid of the old tub and position the new tub, the job is a lot harder. In either instance, the task is within a residence handyman's abilities, although you will need a helper to move out the old tub and set in the new one. Ensure you have actually certified on your own for the task as well as fit trying it. As opposed to working with a service provider to take control of a halfway-completed task, it is far better to take into consideration using one prior to you start. Opportunities are you might require a specialist plumber to make tube links.
This write-up will certainly assist you set up a brand-new tub in your restroom if you have already bought a new tub and also do not require to alter the plan of your previous supply of water pipes.
Your tools and product checklist ought to comprise the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you require to replace old taps with brand-new ones as a part of your setup, after that the first thing you must do is disconnect the water. After doing so, switch on the taps to drain pipes any type of water remaining in the system. The procedure of eliminating the existing taps can be quite bothersome because of the restricted access that is usually the instance.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a faucet device to undo the nut that attaches the supply pipelines to the faucets. Have a fabric ready for the remaining water that will certainly come from the pipelines. When the supply pipes have actually been eliminated, use the same device to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will certainly need to quit the solitary taps from transforming during this process. When the faucets have been gotten rid of, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleansed of any old sealing substance.
Before moving on to fit the new taps, contrast the pipe links on the old taps to the brand-new taps. If the old faucets are longer than the new faucets, then a shank adapter is needed for the new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Touches
If the tails of the new faucets are plastic, then you will certainly need a plastic adapter to prevent damages to the thread. One end of the adapter fits on the plastic tail of the tap as well as the other end supplies a connection to the existing supply pipelines.
If you need to fit a monobloc, after that you will call for decreasing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipe of the monobloc to the standard 15mm supply pipeline.
Next, position the faucet in the mounting opening in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines are in location in between the tap as well as the sink. Safeguard the tap in position with the manufacturer offered backnut. As soon as the faucet is safely in place, the supply pipelines can be attached to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be attached by using corrugated copper piping or with typical faucet connectors. The previous kind should be linked to the faucet ends first, tightening up just by hand. The supply pipes can later be attached to the other end. Tighten both ends with a spanner after both ends have been linked.
Mounting the Bath tub
Using the two wood boards under its feet, position the bathtub in the needed placement. The wood boards are useful in uniformly spreading out the weight of the bath tub over the area of the boards instead of concentrating all the weight onto 4 tiny points.
The next goal is to make sure that the bath tub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by checking the spirit level as well as readjusting the feet on the bath tub until the spirit level reads level.
To set up faucets, fit all-time low of the outermost adaptable tap connector to the suitable supply pipe by making a compression join; after that do the exact same for the various other faucet.
Activate the water supply and check all joints and new pipework for leaks as well as tighten them if needed. Fill up the tub as well as additionally examine the overflow electrical outlet and also the regular electrical outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, deal with the bathroom paneling as defined in the supplier's user's manual. Tiling and also securing around the bath tub ought to wait up until the bathtub has been used at least once as this will resolve it right into its last placement.
Planning for the Installment
To start with, the sustaining frame provided with the bathroom must be fitted (if needed) according to the maker's directions. Next, fit the taps or mixer to the bath tub. When suitable the faucet block, it is very important to ensure that if the tap features a plastic washer, it is fitted between the bath and the faucets. On a plastic bathroom, it is additionally reasonable to fit a sustaining plate under the faucets system to avoid stress on the bathtub.
Fit the flexible faucet adapters to the bottom of both taps using 2 nuts and olives (occasionally supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet hole, and afterwards pass the outlet through the hole in the bath. Make use of the nut provided by the maker to fit the plug-hole. Analyze the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next off, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipeline to the overflow electrical outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which should be fitted inside the bath. Make sure you use every one of the provided washers.
Connect the catch to the bottom of the waste electrical outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, as well as screw on the trap to the electrical outlet. Link the bottom of the overflow tube in a similar manner.The bathroom ought to now prepare to be suited its final placement.
Tiling Around the Tub
In the area where the bathroom satisfies the ceramic tile, it is necessary to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is necessary as the fitting can relocate enough to split a rigid seal, triggering the water to penetrate the wall surface between the bathroom and the tiling, causing complications with dampness as well as possible leakages to the ceiling below.
You can pick from a variety of coloured sealers to blend in your components as well as installations. They are offered in tubes and cartridges, as well as are capable of sealing voids up to a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger void to fill, you can load it with twists of drenched newspaper or soft rope. Bear in mind to always load the bathtub with water prior to securing, to allow for the activity experienced when the tub remains in usage. The sealant can fracture relatively very early if you do not consider this activity before securing.
Alternatively, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and also cut to dimension, are additionally easily readily available on the market. It is a good idea to fit the floor tiles using waterproof or waterproof sticky and also cement.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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